Shoe construction



H. E. ROSEN SHOE CONSTRUCTION Nov. 24, 1 970 4 Shets-$heet 1 Filed March26, 1968 Nov. 24, 1970 E. ROS'EN 1 3,541,708

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed March 26, 1968 4 Sheets-Sheet B Nov. 24, 1970 H.E. ROSENY SHOE CONSTRUCTION 4' Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed March 26, 1968 w GENov. 24, 1970 H. E. ROSEN 3,541,708

' sHoE consmucnou m lea March 26, 1968 r 4 sheets-sheet 4 United StatesPatent Oifice 3,541,708 Patented Nov. 24, 1970 Int. Cl. A43b US. Cl.36-25 16 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A footwear constructionincorporating widthwise adjustability, where the width of the shoe isvaried to fit any particular foot width over a relatively wide range ofpossible widths.

This application is a continuation-in-part of my application Ser. No,612,003, filed Jan. 26, 1967. It relates to footwear incorporatingwidthwise adjustability to provide a shoe which will comfortably andaccurately fit any of a relatively wide range of widths.

It is a known fact that many foot difficulties are directly traceable tothe wearing shoes of improper width.

Since few buyers can afford shoes custom made to the exact dimensions oftheir feet, the best approach ideally with factory-made shoes wouldinvolve carefully measuring the feet, and fitting them with shoes ofcorrect width having lace-to-toe uppers, which could easily be adjustedto compensate for variations between the two feet, as well as those dueto different hosiery thickness, footswelling from fatigue or heat, andthe stretch of the shoe with wear.

The above approach would not be commerically practical, however, sincelace-to-toe styles have limited customer appeal in other than athleticand functional footwear.

In other categories including dress shoes and casuals, one finds styledictating the amount and type of width adjustment employed, varying fromno adjustment whatsoever, as in loafers, pumps, boots and step-in types,to various degrees of width adjustment by laces, buckles and other meanswhere such adjustment is normally of less longitudinal extent than thatafforded by lace-to-toe designs.

While all of the aforementioned conventional width adjustment approachescompensate to varying degrees for modest girth variations between footand shoe, none of these compensates satisfactorily for the wider rangesencountered in attempting to make one shoe fit a relatively wide rangeof standard shoe widths.

Despite the above limitations, acceptable fit would be obtained moreoften, were it not for the common practice of offering most popularpriced footwear in one or two widths only. As a result, many customerstend to accept improper fit rather than shop for a better fit in thosestores carrying wider size ranges, which are usually at higher prices.

Additional fit problems arise from the tendency of salesmen to fit ashoe in anticipation of future stretch which may not actually occur, andalso from mail-order sales, Where poorly fitting shoes are oftenaccepted to avoid the bother of returning them to the seller.

Consequently, it is the major object of this invention to provide anovel footwear construction applicable to many styles and materialswhereby one can adjust the width of a shoe particularly but notnecessarily exclusively in the areas of ball, waist and instep to enablethe shoe to provide a proper and accurate fit over a relatively broadrange of widths. This adjustment can be made at the time of purchase,with later readjustability by the wearer as desired.

Such object is accomplished according to the present invention in aunique manner whereby the width of the sole remains relatively fixed atpleasing and practical dimensions, while the upper itself is varied ingirth by adjusting at least one of its lower margins transversely, sucha margin or lasting allowance extending between an insole member such asa sock lining and the outsole of the shoe. This affords a wider range ofadjustment and a wider choice of materials, than do constructionslimiting their adjustment solely to the shoe bottom.

In general, the invention provides, in footwear having upper elementswith lower marginal edges inturned transversely between the foot and apreferably relatively nonstretchable sole element, means whereby atleast a portion of such margins have a limited degree of free transversemovement between said foot and sole elements. More specifically, theconstruction may provide, in a shoe having a backpart and a forepartincluding a toe portion and a mid portion beneath the ball and instep ofthe foot forward of the heel, transversely relatively non-stretchableoutsole and insole elements underlying at least the forepart of theshoe, each said outsole and insole element extending continuouslythereacross and extending longitudinally for at least said forepart ofthe shoe with said insole element spaced above said sole element. Theremay also be provided a generally closed upper element extending downtoward the peripheral edge of the outsole element, said upper elementhaving its longitudinally extending marginal edges, at least in theforepart of the shoe, inturned toward one another above the outsoleelement and below the insole element for free transverse movementbetween the insole and outsole elements. The margins may havetransversely stiff but longitudinally flexible stiffener elementsattached thereto.

Adjustment means, including manually operable means, are connected tothe margins and their stiffener elements between the toe portion and thebackpart for adjustment, preferably by fixing a predetermined transversespacing between the stiffener elements, preferably relatively proportional or even equal as to each stiffener element with respect to acentral longitudinal axis of said sole element, so that the adjustmentmeans is movably adjustable to a variety of said predetermined spacingsto provide an increased or decreased transverse cross-sectional areathroughout the mid portion of the shoe.

For the purpose of more fully explaining further objects and features ofthe invention, reference is now made to the following detaileddescription of preferred embodiments of the invention, together with theaccompanying drawings, wherein:

FIG. 1 is a side view, partly broken away and in section, of a firstembodiment of a shoe incorporating the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a sectional plan view of the shoe of FIG. 1, taken on the line22 thereof;

FIGS. 3-6 are transverse sections of the shoe of FIGS. 1 and 2 taken,respectively, on the lines 33, 44, 55 and 66 thereof;

FIG. 7 is a transverse section showing modifications of the shoes ofFIGS. 1-6;

FIG. 8 is a side view, partly broken away and in section, of a secondembodiment of a shoe incorporating the present invention;

FIG. 9 is a sectional plan view of the shoe of FIG. 8, taken on the line99 thereof;

FIGS. 10 and 11 are transverse sections of the shoe of FIGS. 8 and 9taken, respectively, on the lines 1010 and Ill-11 thereof; and

FIG. 12 is a sectional plan view of another modification of the shoe ofFIGS. 1 through 6.

Referring to the drawings, the widthwise adjustable footwearconstruction of the present invention will be described as embodied in aleather shoe, similar in appearance to the well-known loafer of themoccasin type, having a separate sock lining and an outer sole and aheel. The shoe upper element includes two main pieces generally calledthe vamp and the plug 12, these two pieces usually being joined bystitching :11 to form a seam around the upper edge of the forepart ofthe shoe, an edge trim 13 being provided around the ankle opening. Theinsole element 14, commonly called the sock lining, overlies theinturned marginal edges 15, 17, commonly called the lasting allowance,of the vamp 10, and the outsole 16 underlies said edges 15. A heel 18 isattached to the rear or heel portion of the outsole 16.

The present invention provides a shoe which in its external appearancecan be made similar to the genuine moccasin loafer type of shoe style orof many other types of footwear styles and constructions, but addsfurther unique constructional features which enable it to havepredetermined widthwise adjustability for superior fit and comfort.

In order to accomplish this, the bottom of the usual vamp 10 portion ofthe shoe upper element, which conventionally extends transversely atleast partly across the bottom of the forepart of the shoe and overliesthe transversely relatively non-stretchable outsole 16, is provided withinturned longitudinally extending marginal edges 15, 17 on the vampportion of the shoe upper element, which edges, according to theinvention, are free to be moved transversely, preferably by manuallyoperable means, to a predetermined adjusted fixed position to vary thegirth and hence the widthwise cross-sectional size of the moccasin. Oneor more of the transversely relatively nonstretchable shoe insoleelements, which in the art are variously called sock linings, tucks, andmidsoles, for example, overlies margins 15, 17 as well as underlies themfor their control as is hereinafter more fully described.

As shown in FIGS. 1 through 6, the bottom of the vamp 10 has inwardlyturned, longitudinally extending side marginal edges 15, 17, in thenature of lasting allowances which are confined between, but free offixed connection, to the insole elements for free transverse slidingmovement of edges 15, 17 therebetween. Such insole elements include anoverlying insole element 14 of the type usually referred to as a socklining, cooperating with an underlying insole element 25, of the typeusually referred to as a midsole, positioned immediately above outsoleelement 16 to which it is attached as by cementing or conventionalsewing along their outer peripheries or both and, in the rear part ofthe shoe, an intermediate insole element 26 of the type usually referredto as a tuck, interposed between the other insole elements 14 and 25.

In the forepart of the shoe, adjacent the toe portion and extendingrearwardly therefrom to adjacent the shank portion thereof, edges 15, 17are each provided preferably with a pair of longitudinal stiffenermembers, forepart stiffener member 21 and midpart stiffener member 22 onedge and forepart stiffener member 23 and midpart stiffener member 24 onedge 17, although only forepart stiffener members may be used ifdesired. Stitfener members 21, 22, 23 and 24 may be of thin spring steeland have the property of being flexible to forces which tend to bendthem along their length, (as experienced in normal walking) whileremaining relatively inflexib e to transverse forces exerted in theirown plane. Stitfeners 21 and 22 and stitfeners 23 and 24 are attached bysuitable rivets 19 and respectively to edges 15, 17 and in turn arepivotally attached to the fixed shoe elements for transverse swingingmovement at their fixed ends. Their transversely movable free ends areconnected by a rivet 28 loosely connecting the free ends of forepart andmidpart stiffener members 21 and 22 for transverse sliding movement,with the lower end of said rivet 28 being positioned in slot 29 inmidsole 25 for limiting the extent of said transverse movement, while atthe same time holding stiffener members 21, 22 and edges 15, 17 downagainst midsole 25. Preferably, rivet 28 extends upwardly through asimilar slot in intermediate tuok insole element 26. Similarly, rivets19 and 20 may also be extended through suitable slots in midsole 25 andtuck insole element 26. The pivotal connection of the forward end offorepart stiffener member 21 is by means of pivot rivet 31 which extendsthrough midsole 25 and that of the rearward end of midpart stiffenermember 22 is by means of pivot rivet 33 which also serves to hold saidstiffener members and upper edges down against midsole 25 and extendsboth through it and intermediate tuck insole element 26. With thisarrangement, the extent of arcuate movement of the free ends ofstitfeners 21, 22 connected by rivet 28 and controlled by slots 29,establishes the maximum variation in the widthwise dimension of theshoe.

The desired predetermined fixed position within the available variationis established by manually operable means comprising a cammingmechanism, including a cam follower in the form of a spring metal loop30 having a tooth pressing against a detent cam 32 positioned betweenthe legs of loop 30. Cam 32, shown in its narrowest adjusted position inFIGS. 1 through 6, is manually rotatable by either upper or lower screwslots exposed at the inside or outside bottom of the shoe. The closedend of the spring loop 30 is fixed in position at the rear portion ofthe shoe, adjacent heel 18, by clamp 27, while the free ends of thespring loop extend downwardly and are attached to the forward ends ofmidpart stitfener elements 22, 24. Such latter attachment isaccomplished by means of U-clips 35, 37, the closed ends of whichsurround the loop free ends 33, 34, with the marginal edges 15, 17 andmidpart stiffener members 22, 24 being clamped therein.

In order to adjust the shoe width, shown in its narrowest width in FIGS.1 through 6, it is only necessary to rotate cam 32 with a conventionalscrewdriver through an angle of up to degrees from its narrowestposition to open spring loop 30 the amount needed to fix the adjustedposition of margins 15, 17 as desired. In this regard, with the centerof the rearmost portion of spring loop 30 fixed on the longitudinalcentral axis A of the shoe by clamp 27 as shown, it should be noted thatthe angular movement of each of margins 15, 17 is relativelyproportional and preferably equal, so that the widthwise adjustment ormargins 15, 17 is such that the shoe upper portion 10 remains generallycentered on its outsole 16 throughout the full range of the adjustment,as is important from both the standpoint of appearance and function. Atany setting of less than maximum width, a limited degree of stretch inlasting allowance transverse movement may be provided to make it easierfor a wearer to slip on the shoe. In addition, a sufficiently gentledegree of spring compression may make possible the elimination ofcamming mechanisms, Where the foot itself spreads the upper to a properfit, against gentle inward pressure of the lasting allowances under thefoot. In this latter case, the spacing between margins 15, 17 willusually not be predetermined, but rather determined by the foot itselfwithin the shoe.

In FIG. 7 is shown a modification of the shoe of FIGS. 1-6, whereinthere is additionally included a waterproofing membrane 38, of thinrubber or the like, as well as a thin spring steel transverse stiffener39 having suitable slots therein to permit relative transverse movementof rivets 19 and 20.

In FIGS. 8 through 11 is shown a somewhat modified shoe according to theinvention wherein adjustment is provided by means of external tie cords50 located in a conventional position above the vamp 10 and plug 12 fortying therearound.

More specifically, the forepart stiffeners 21 and midpart stitfeners 22are arranged on margins 15, 17' and are connected to the fixed shoeelements as before, except that additional connecting elements areprovided in the form of U shaped spring clip elements 52 positionedbetween sole 16 and sock insole element 14, attached thereto and held inposition by midsole element 25. The upper arms of clip elements 52overlie and press downwardly by spring pressure against forepartstiffener elements 21 and margins 17' which are in turn pressed againstmidsole element 25 while remaining free for transverse sliding movementrelatively thereto. In operation, such U clip elements hold the midsoleand upper closely together at the outer edges of the clip elements toimprove the look of the shoe, and help inhibit entry of pebbles andforeign matter between upper and midsole.

In the modification of FIGS. 8 through 11, the desired predeterminedmaximum fixed position within the available variation is established bya cable mechanism operated by tie cords 50. Said mechanism includes asingle length of wire cable 60, preferably held by a central clamp 61and extending transversely across the shoe somewhat forward of theconnected free ends of the forepart stitfeners 21, 23 and midpartstitfeners 22, 24, passing through rings 62, 64 on each side of theshoe, and thence back to each of stitfener connecting rivets 28' locatedon the opposite side of the shoe for connection thereto. Each tie cord50 is attached to ring 62, 64, passing through a grommet 66 in vamp 10in order to do so.

With this arrangement, shoe Width may be adjusted inwardly simply bypulling on tie cords 50 to achieve the fit desired and then tying themtogether, increased width being achieved simply by inserting the footinto the shoe with the tie cord untied. As before, clamp 61 ensures thatthe adjustment of marginal edges 15, 17 is generally equal with respectto the central axis A of the shoe in order to maintain the desiredappearance regardless of shoe adjusment.

In FIG. 12 is shown a still further modification wherein a cable reel issubstituted for the camming mechanism of FIGS. 1 through 6, sucharrangement having a screwdriver-actuated cable drum 70 frictionallyrotatable about a vertical axis and having a pair of cables 72, 74 woundthereon with their free ends passing forward and through a common guide76 to attachment points on rivets 28. With this arrangement, winding upthe cables on the reel reduces the transverse width of the shoe, and, ifdesired, a U-spring similar to that of FIGS. 1 through 6 may be used tobias the shoe margins in an outward di rection.

Various other modifications, not herein specifically described, will beapparent to those skilled in the art. For example, although the shoeconstruction of the invention has been described with reference to aloafer with a moccasin type seam similar to that on footwearconventionally referred to as hand-sewns, it will be understood by thoseskilled in the art that it may be used in many other types and styles ofshoes capable of incorporating the needed elements. Such modificationsare deemed to be within the spirit of the present invention and thescope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portionand a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot forward of the heel;

transversely relatively non-stretchable sole and insole elementsunderlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, each said sole andinsole element extending continuously thereacross and extendinglongitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe with saidinsole element spaced above said sole element;

an upper element extending down toward the peripheral edge of the soleelement with its longitudinally extending margins at least in theforepart of the shoe inturned toward one another above said sole elementand below said insole element and free of fixed connection to saidelements between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe for freetransverse sliding movement relatively thereto; adjustment meansincluding manually operable means connected between said inturnedmarginal edges of said upper element between said toe portion and saidbackpart for fixing a predetermined transverse spacing btween saidmarginal edges, whereby said adjustment means is movably adjustable to avariety of said predetermined spacings to provide an increased ordecreased transverse crosssectional area in at least part of the midportion of said shoe.

2. In a shoe as claimed in claim 1 wherein said adjustment meansincludes manually operable means for fix ing a transverse adjustment ofat least one free margin.

3. In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portionand a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot forward of the heel;

a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying atleast the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extendingcontinuously thereacross and extending longitudinally for at least saidentire forepart of the shoe;

a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element extending downtoward the peripheral edge of the sole element with its longitudinallyextending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe inturned towardone another above said sole element and free of fixed connection to saidsole element between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe forfree transverse movement relatively thereto;

adjustment means connected between said inturned marginal edges of saidupper element between said toe portion and said backpart, said upperelement being connected to said sole element at least at said toeportion and said backpait; 1

whereby said adjustment means is adjustable to provide a variabletransverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.

4. In a shoe as claimed in claim 3 wherein said adjustment meansincludes manually operable means for fixing a predetermined transversespacing between said marginal edges.

5. In a shoe as claimed in claim 4 wherein said adjust ment means fixessaid spacing relative to each said marginal edge with respect to acentral longitudinal reference axis on said sole element.

6. In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portionand a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot forward of the heel;

transversely relatively non-stretchable sole and insole elementsunderlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, each said sole andinsole element extending continuously thereacross and extendinglongitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe with saidinsole element spaced above said sole element;

an upper element extending down toward the peripheral edge of the soleelement with its longitudinally extending margins at least in theforepart of the shoe inturned toward one another above said sole elementand below said insole element and free of fixed connection to saidelements between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe for freetransverse sliding movement relatively thereto;

adjustment means including manually operable means connected betweensaid inturned marginal edges of said upper element between said toeportion and said backpart for fixing a transverse spacing between saidmarginal edges,

whereby said adjustment means is movably adjustable to a variety of saidspacings to provide an increased or decreased transverse cross-sectionalarea throughout the mid portion of said shoe.

7. In a shoe as claimed in claim 6 wherein said marginal edges havetransversely stiff but longitudinally flexible stiffener elementsattached thereto for transverse movement with said margins between saidinsole and sole elements with said stiffener elements being pivotallymounted at one end on said sole element leaving the other free endtransversely movable with respect to said insole and sole elements.

8. In a shoe as claimed in claim 7 wherein cam means mounted on saidsole element and cooperating with said stiffener elements adjusts saidspacing.

9. In a shoe as claimed in claim 7 wherein cable means cooperating withsaid stiffener elements adjust said spacing.

10. In a shoe as claimed in claim 9 wherein said cable means includes acable drum mounted between said stiffener elements with cables wound onsaid drum and having their free ends cooperating with said stiffenerelements.

11. In a shoe as claimed in claim 9 wherein said cable means includestie means extending around said upper element for adjustment by tyingabove said upper element.

12. In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portionand a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot forward of the heel;

transversely relatively non-stretchable sole and insole elementsunderlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, each said sole andinsole element extending continuously thereacross and extendinglongitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe with saidinsole element spaced above said sole element;

an upper element extending down toward the peripheral edge of the soleelement with longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepartof the shoe inturned toward one another above said sole element andbelow said insole element and having transversely stiff butlongitudinally flexible stiffener elements attached thereto for freetransverse movement with said margins between said insole and soleelements adjustment means including manually operable means connected tosaid stiffener elements between said toe portion and said backpart forfixing a predetermined transverse spacing between said stiffenerelements relative to each stiffener element with respect to a centrallongitudinal axis of said sole element whereby said adjustment means ismovably adjustable to a variety of said predetermined spacings toprovide an increased or decreased transverse cross-sectional areathroughout the mid portion of said shoe. 13. In a shoe as claimed inclaim 12 wherein said adjustment means further includes limiting meansdefining the maximum and minimum transverse movement of said stiffenerelements.

14. In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portionand a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot forward of the heel;

transveresly relatively non-stretchable sole and insole elementsunderlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, each said sole andinsole element extending continuously thereacross and extendinglongitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe with saidinsole element spaced above said sole element;

an upper element extending down toward the peripheral edge of the soleelement with its longitudinally ex tending marginal edges at least inthe forepart of the shoe inturned toward one another above said soleelement and below said insole element and free of fixed connection tosaid elements between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe forfree transverse sliding movement relatively thereto;

said marginal edges have transversely stiff but longitudinally flexiblestiffener elements attached thereto for 8 transverse movement with saidmarginal edges between said insole and sole elements with said stiffenerelements being pivotally mounted at one end on said sole element leavingthe other free end transversely movable with respect to said insole andsole elements,

U-clip elements having upper arms overlying said stiffener elements andlower arms beneath said stiffener elements and fixed to said shoe tolimit upward movement of said stiffener elements relative to said soleelement;

adjustment means including manually operable means connectedbetween saidinturned marginal edges of said upper element between said toe portionand said backpart for fixing a transverse spacing between said marginaledges,

whereby said adjustment means is movably adjustable to a variety of saidspacings to provide an increased or decreased transverse cross-sectionalarea throughout the mid portion of said shoe.

15. In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portionand a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot forward of the heel;

transversely relatively non-stretchable sole and insole elementsunderlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, each said sole andinsole element extending continuously thereacross and extendinglongitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe with saidinsole element spaced above said sole element; an upper elementextending down toward the peripheral edge of the sole element withlongitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoeinturned toward one another above said sole element and below saidinsole element, each said margin having a pair of transversely stiff butlongitudinally flexible stiffener elements including a forepartstiffener element pivotally mounted at its forward end on said soleelement and a midpart stiffener element pivotally mounted at its rearend on said sole element attached to said margin for free transversemovement with said margins between said insole and sole elementsadjustment means including manually operable means connected to saidstiffener elements between said toe portion and said backpart for fixingthe transverse spacing between said stiffener elements relative to eachstiffener element with respect to a central longitudinal axis of saidsole element whereby said adjustment means is movably adjustable to avariety of spacings to provide an increased or decreased transversecross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe. 16. In ashoe having upper and sole elements wherein the longitudinally extendingmargins of the upper element are inturned above the sole element and areat least in part free of fixed stationary connection to the sole elementto allow said margins a limited degree of relatively free transversemotion thereto, said margins having attached thereto transversely stiffbut longitudinally flexible stiffener elements, pivotally mounted at oneend and adjustment means connected between said stiffener elementsadjacent the instep of the shoe cooperating with said margins to allowtransverse movement thereof to effectively vary the width of the shoe,said adjustment means controlling the amount of transverse swingingmovement of said stiffener elements around their pivotal mountings.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS PATRICK D. LAWSON, PrimaryExaminer

